冲浪：王者之选
世界上有成百上千的中央可以看到蓝色的巨浪、白色的海滩和扛着冲浪板身着时兴泳装的帅男靓女们。但是，当谈到冲浪时，人们首先想到的老是美国的夏威夷，因为夏威夷拥有世界上最好的、最危险的冲浪活动，并且还因为夏威夷岛的本族人珀利尼西亚人被公以为是最早拥有站在木板上破浪行进的艺术的。
历史学家们以为早期的夏威夷殖夷易近者是从别的的珀利尼西亚诸岛移夷易近过去的，其中包括塔希提岛，岛上的居夷易近听说在沿着木板舒展时是踏浪行进的。最早的夏威夷冲浪者是把肚子贴在长板下行进的，我们现在晓得他们第二步才站起来的。什么缘故原因呢？他们在熔岩上雕琢活动员站在冲浪板上的画面，以此来记实对这项活动的热爱，他们一代接一代传唱让人们想起高明冲浪武艺的圣歌，旨在提醒部族的年白叟永久不要忘失落祖先的豪杰壮志。固然夏威夷本族人的历史已年夜部分流失落，别的国家的摸索者照旧找到了几百年前夏威夷人冲浪的记实。
闻名的探险家库克船长往世了，他的一位老实的海员记实了他所见证的冲浪者的大胆和高明武艺，思量到良多欧洲海员谁人时候乃至还不会泅水，你可以想象获稳当他们看到冲浪者以那么快的速度划过水面的时候印象该是多么深入呀。听说夏威夷本族人的首级把冲浪看成一种显现力量和灵敏的手腕，威慑那些向他们的向导提出挑衅的那些人，加深冲浪同胞们的印象。传统上，统治阶级利用的板唱工比较精美，用以向他人展现他们的地位和重要性，乃至冲浪板的制造都有特另外礼仪，宗教首级将做祈祷，树被砍倒之前要先向它纳贡一些鱼，固然，为国王、或勇于拿自己的生命在急浪中冒险的重要人物做冲浪板，这义务可就不是那么轻松了。
本日，想要往冲浪的你可以不用很有钱，也可以不用很知名。毕竟上，全部体形和年夜小的人，不论贫富，都可以往尝试冲浪。冲浪的根基设置装备摆设相对来说照旧可以买得起的，一旦冲浪手买好了必备的工具，期待的便是那些风平浪静了。
Surfing: The Sport of Kings
Hundreds of places in the world have huge blue waves, white sand beaches, and beautiful young people carrying surfboards. But, when people think of surfing, many first think of Hawaii, U.S.A. Not only because Hawaii has some of the best, and most dangerous, surfing in the world, but also because the Polynesians, natives (1) of the island of Hawaii, were the first people to surf. Historians believe that Hawaii natives migrated (2) from other Polynesian islands, including Tahiti, where the islanders are known to have ridden waves as they stretched out along on a board. While the first Hawaiian surfers may have ridden their long boards on their stomachs, we know that they soon started standing on the board. How do we know? They carved pictures of men standing on surfboards on lava rocks. They also passed chants from generation to generation that told of amazing surfing feats (3). They wanted to make sure the younger members of the tribe never forget the heroics (4) of their ancestors (5). In addition, explorers from other countries recorded seeing Hawaiians surfing hundreds of years ago. The famous explorer Captain Cook died in Hawaii, but a member of his crew recorded the bravery and excellent skills of the local Hawaiian surfers. Many European sailors could not even swim at that time, so imagine how impressed they were to see surfers moving across the water at such a high speeds! It is thought that the chiefs and leaders of the Hawaiian native people used surfing as a means to show off their strength and agility (6), and to intimidate (7) and impress others. Traditionally, the ruling class had better crafted and more elaborate boards to show others their status and great importance. Making a surfboard had special steps. For example, a religious leader would say a prayer before the tree was cut down. Today people around the world love to surf. People of all shapes and sizes, rich or poor, can try their hands at surfing. Basic equipment is affordable (8), and once a surfer buys his board, all he need is some waves! WORD KEY 1. native adjective当地的 2. migrate verb迁徙 3. feats noun武艺,功勋 4. heroics noun大胆 5. ancestors noun祖先 6. agility noun灵敏的手腕 7 intimidate verb威吓 8 affordable adjective不论贫富
关键字：王者之印 异界之王者无双 王者之印外挂 王者之战 漆黑王者之妖临世界